How expensive is your discount sweater - REALLY?

The recent factory collapses in Bangladesh and Cambodia should really be setting off warning signals in every Western consumers' minds, but from the looks of things, no one's ready to change their spending habits any time soon.

Here's the problem in a nutshell:

• International chains are constantly on the hunt for high profit-margins (not that I blame them for that, it's their prerogative)
• Consumers have become used to ever-cheaper prices available on the markets at their favorite high-street shops
• The economy's recent nosedive has made consumers even more penny-pinching in their spending habits
• No one is very happy to start consuming less, so the demand is that the chain retailers offer the same products at ever-dropping prices

So here's what we have as a result - over 900 dead factory-workers in Bangladesh and Cambodia, all within 1 month.

In all honesty, I think there's something inherently wrong with this setup. What we're basically saying is that the value of a life in the West is higher than the value of a life in the East. Now I have a problem with that, and when you think about it, you ought to as well.

So what's the solution? Well it's definitely not a simple one. We've all grown used to spending less and getting more, but this is an absolutely toxic and certainly non-sustainable cycle here.

The solution lies in Western consumers' habits. We need to stop consuming and start investing. Your grandmother didn't buy herself a new dress every week, did she? Quite frankly, she wore her dresses for years and mended them when something wore out. Now, what exactly is wrong with that?

Frankly, I think most of our grandparents had much more style than you or I do today. So how can you start changing your habits? Granted, it's probably something that's going to take a while for you to adjust to, but there are a couple of steps you can take to put yourself on a healthier shopping-path:

1. BUY LESS STUFF. Seriously, you'll be able to save yourself more money and it's actually not that difficult. Go through your closet and really take a look at what's there. Do you honestly need another tank-top, skirt, pair of jeans, whatever? Probably not. 
2. Spoil Yourself. Allow yourself an indulgent purchase once per season - an expensive belt, purse, shoes, sweater, whatever. Just make sure that it's made from quality materials (take a look at our 8 Steps to Discovering Your Own Sense of Style article for more tips here) and preferably, not made in a 3rd-world country
3. Learn how to fix it yourself. If you have an article of clothing that you're happy with, but suddenly gets a tear, stain, whatever, learn how to fix it! There are tons of articles out there on the Interwebs that can show you exactly what you need to know.
4. Buy Local. Chances are, when you do go shopping, your local designer isn't making their goods overseas, but actually in your own neighborhood. While prices may be marginally more expensive than your favorite chain, you can feel all warm&fuzzy about supporting your local economy and usually, local designers pay a little more attention to detail which means - better quality!

Now obviously, there's a lot more to these issues than just what we see on the surface. What your goal ought to be is to send a message to these chain-store retailers - if they know that consumers are willing to spend a little more on their clothes, it makes it a lot easier for them to be able to invest in better working-conditions for their factories. 

DIY & Sustainable Lifestyles

Nowadays, consumers are becoming more and more aware of what goes into the products they consume. With this knowledge there are many who refuse to be a part of a system that endorses sweatshops, child labor, chemical additives, GMOs, out-of-control pollution, etc. Knowledge is power and in the days of instant information just Google that chemical listed as an ingredient in the cereal you like or look up the production for that brand of clothes that's so hip right now.

Besides just the ethical comforts, there is a charm in going back to the way our grandparents and great grandparents used to consume. It seems like the world was completely different back then. There wasn't "fast food" and there were no more than a handful of multinational corporations.

Though it's also key to remember that shifting over to a more sustainable lifestyle won't necessarily save you money. That said, you will get more value from your money, both for yourself, your family and for the planet.

There are a few simple steps you can take to ease into a more sustainable lifestyle:

1. If you can't make it/fix it it yourself, support a locally run business that can, rather than a multinational chain.

2. Learn to pull yourself away from the TV/computer and get outside. It's easy to forget about the importance of the environment's health on the drive from home to work/school in the morning. It's  especially important for us city mice to see what trees, birds and fresh water actually are. Otherwise these things just seem like images from travel websites or nice desktop backgrounds. Take a day trip and hike around in a nature reserve. Breath in the fresh air and just appreciate nature!

3. Make your own health a priority. Once you start doing a little research, you'll find that there are basic habits that most of us have that are ultimately unhealthy - and we're including mental health here as well, because mind and body have to work together. I mean, how many times have you come down with a cold when you're under a lot of stress? The key is to understand what stands behind the strange words that make up the ingredient list of all of the foods that we eat, more or less processed. The movie Food Inc. is a great place to start.

4. Exercise! Jog, run, do yoga, lift weights, pilates, anything Just keep your body active. We are creatures that are meant originally to hunt for our food, not just push buttons and sit comfortably eating it...

5. Step out of your comfort-zone. If you really want to make a change in your lifestyle, it means that you're not only going to have to stop certain habits, but you'll also have to try out some new things that may be uncomfortable at first - it's called building character. Don't be afraid to visit groups, places, forums, anywhere where you don't know anyone, and be willing to do it alone. Your current group of friends and family may not yet be willing to take that step with you, but that's OK. This is your opportunity to meet some new people who can help you. In fact, if you show up at a grow-op on your own, you'll be surprised at the enthusiasm from complete strangers willing to teach and help you learn!

It's often fun to fantasize about living a more sustainable lifestyle. It would be so much fun to be able to re-use, re-purpose and even fix the broken and worn out items that surround us instead of throwing out an buying new.

These are just a few possible ways to move towards this type of lifestyle. It is not something that is possible to simply switch into right away. There are no magical shortcuts, however these are some basic steps and methods that can be used to move your life in a more positive direction. 

<3
Shai & Andrea

8 Steps to Discovering Your Own Sense of Style

Whether it's Lady Gaga or Audrey Hepburn, we all have our fashion icons. People we look up to for their confidence, style and unbelievable ability to look fabulous no matter what. As different as they may seem, there's one thing they all have in common - their own unique sense of style.

And here most of us are, wearing the same pair of jeans to work/school everyday, without the slightest sense of inspiration. So what can you do to develop our own sense of style and bring out your inner fashionista? While it's not something that's easily developed overnight, we have a few pointers to help you cultivate your own garden of fashionable delights.

Of course, it's important to consider a few things that you won't be needing. For starters, style isn't something that can simply be bought. To be honest, if you've had trouble discovering your fashion-identity, you've probably fallen into the most common trap out there - the trend-aholic.

So with this in mind, let's take a look at some of the simple things that will help you cultivate that inner fashionista who's dying to step into the spotlight.

1. Make an analysis of your wardrobe - pull out all of your favorite pieces of clothing. Toss aside anything that's less than 6 months old. What is left are your go-to favorites. Anything that has stood the test of time and you are still happy to wear (even if it is only for that special occasion) is an item that bears in it the essence of what your own personal style is.

2. Pull out the old fashion magazines - Not the new ones with this season's hottest trends. You're looking at developing your own style, so avoiding trends is going to be important. Pull out an old Vogue or Style magazine from at least two years ago and flip through it and find the cuts, prints and colors that still excite you. Keep in mind that trends in fashion come and go and go round in never ending circles, so even though something is currently "out", it doesn't mean that it's not cool, fun or stylish and definitely does not mean that it won't make a comeback next season.

 3. Make a list - Of things that you feel are missing from your wardrobe. Separate the list to types of items, cuts, colors. Here's where this is going to get tricky. We all feel like sometimes there's this must-have item that's so hot this season and we can't live without it. Our wardrobe is just dying for it! Then 6 months later - you're stuck wondering what the heck were you thinking? So when you're making this list, be sure that the items you're adding here are really something that you've been missing for a long time. A really beautiful statement necklace, a hat for sunny days, a blazer that fits properly, etc.

4.  Clear out the junk - Anything you haven't worn for 6 months or longer needs to go. The only exception should be very seasonal items (If it's July and you haven't worn a wool coat for 6 months, we'll understand) and event-wardrobe pieces - evening dresses, tiaras, etc. Everything else must go!

5. Mix it up - Take items you haven't worn for a long time and try styling them in an unusual way. Turn your old cardigan upside-down or backwards. Pull up that maxi-skirt into a strapless dress. This is the perfect way to bring new life to some of the items that you never wear, but can't bear to part with either. Another important point to keep in mind - don't be afraid of getting creative here. No one is going to notice that dress is really a skirt; and if they do, they'll probably be in awe of your innovation!

6. Swap with friends - Always a good way to clear out something you no longer feel attached to and gain a sparkly new addition to your wardrobe. As they say "One man's trash is another man's treasure". So before you drag those old items to the Goodwill, get your friends together for a wardrobe-swap. It's a cheap way to inject some new life in your wardrobe and pair that with a few cocktails and a camera - you'll have a night to remember for years!

7. Accessorize - This is the biggest fashionista secret that there is. We all have days when you just can't be bothered to wear anything more than that black t-shirt and jeans. There's nothing wrong with that, just be sure to add a little flare. Whether it's a scarf, earrings, or FABULOUS pair of shoes, a little accessorizing will bring you from blah to BLING - effortlessly.

8. DIY - There are many awesome blogs out there that can give you short and easy to use tutorials to spice up that old faded denim jacket that you can't part with or turn that colorful scarf your Mom gave you into a purse, skirt, necklace, you name it! Here are a few of our favorites:

http://www.outsapop.com/
http://apair-andaspare.blogspot.com
http://psimadethis.com/
http://www.ispydiy.com/
http://abeautifulmess.typepad.com/

Developing your own sense of style is something that takes time, confidence, experimentation and most of all, patience. When you're experimenting and testing, remember that there are going to be great failures as well as spectacular successes. This process is meant to bring you out of your comfort zone, and at times it's going to be, well - uncomfortable. Being stylish is an adventure, so be brave, dress accordingly and most importantly - have fun!

Good luck and stay stylish!

<3
Shai & Andrea

4 Handy tips to integrate vintage into your modern wardrobe

It's surprising how many people love the concept of wearing vintage clothing. The whole idea of it is great - you get quality items that have stood the test of time, and you never have to worry about anyone showing up in the same outfit (except maybe your grandmother!).

The thing that holds most people back isn't a lack of eagerness - it's this abstract sense of commitment. Like if you start wearing vintage clothes, you have to start doing your hair every day in a 1960's beehive or something. The truth is, adding a little vintage to your wardrobe doesn't take that much effort at all.

We've put together a couple of simple ways for you to take the leap into the vintage realm:

1. Accessories are great appetizers - Accessories are the perfect way to test the waters - jewelry, belt, broaches, hats, bags, etc. They're low-commitment and they give you a little vintage flare that's actually really easy to work into your existing wardrobe.

2. Have a full budget - Just like with new clothing, quality vintage isn't cheap, but you will get more for your money. A brand new high street fashion chain is charging you most of the money for their fancy big campaigns and branding while with vintage all of your investment goes towards the garment! Even if you are spending a bit more on your item, the vintage boutique has done most of the work for you, hunting and selecting the higher quality items floating around out there.

3. Be patient, be picky - You might not find the perfect piece to suit your style the first time out, so don't force it. Also keep in mind that the perfect item you come across may happen to be 5 sizes up or down from your size. This is part of the charm with vintage sometimes, to wear an over sized  blouse pulled in at the waist by a wide vintage belt with an awesome buckle. Of course, if that doesn't do it for you, many vintage boutiques also offer a customization and alteration service!

4. Enjoy the hunt - Part of the fun with shopping vintage is that you never know what you'll find - it's like a treasure hunt! Many great vintage items come with a history - don't be afraid to ask a shop owner about something. Keep an eye as well on the fabric content. Often you will get a steal and go home with a nice silk dress for the price of a new poly-cotton blend dress from the big box retailers.

Of course there's a lot more to shopping vintage, but as long as you keep these starting points in mind, you'll find that there's a special joy in discovering a great vintage treasure.

Even more so than with shopping new, you'll want to keep an eye on the quality of your treasures. For more tips on that, take a look at our post on buying quality clothing.

So good luck and happy hunting!

We found this image while navigating the inter-web. It's one of those images that makes you stop and think...

Marks & Spencer UK get on board with recycling!

It's exciting to read about Mark's and Spencer's new initiative "Shwopping"

They are encouraging their shoppers to donate one item that they no longer want/use each time they shop for a new one.

The idea is to collect as many items for recycling as they sell per year (which is about 350 Million items!)

The donated clothes are then given to Oxfam, who in turn resells, reuses or recycles the garments.

This is a great initiative and puts M&S in line with many other big brands out there who are becoming environmentally and socially aware. It seems that the average consumer is longing for some additional meaning to be part of their shopping experience. People are starting to fill guilty for their  consumerist behavior and this is a step in the right direction.

Check out the initiative on the M&S site:

http://plana.marksandspencer.com/about/partnerships/oxfam/shwopping

A 5 step guide to buying better quality clothing

One of the most frustrating things about "fast fashion", aside from the damage it does to the environment and the horrid working conditions of the poor faceless Chinese sewers, is the need it creates to keep buying and buying due to poor quality. Let me tell you about what happened to me last month.

I have this great looking jacket I picked up at Zara a little over 2 seasons ago. It would have gone perfectly with this outfit I was wearing - the only problem? After wearing it for 2 seasons, the lining was ripping to shreds, the pockets were full of holes, and the collar was limp.

The moral of this story - ultimately, saving a little in the now costs a lot more in the long-run. I've got a sinking feeling that if I'd splurged on at least a really high-quality vintage piece, it would still be standing proud in my closet. That being said, there are ways to shop smartly and choose the higher quality items within the large chain-stores as well.

To make your shopping adventures a little more well-guided, here's a list of a few points to watch for next time you're shopping for that new blazer (or skirt or sweater or dress... you know what I mean)

1. Fabric Content: I'm pretty sure if the lining in that Zara jacket was something a little stronger than acetate, it probably would have held up better. Even if it seems at first that silk lining is a splurge, keep in mind that silk lasts a lot longer than most man-made fabrics. And while polyester is durable - are you going to wear something that doesn't breathe and gives you backne?

2. Stitching: This is also very dependent on your fabric content and fabric weight. The stitching should be something that you know is there but you don't really notice. If you're noticing your seams, this means that there is something off about the craftsmanship. Skips and pulls and jaggedness may seem like small flaws at first but will grow with time and constant washing, which may lead to split seams or even holes in the fabric.

3. Seams: Not to be confused with stitching, your seams need to be sturdy and appropriate. For example, a pair of pants should always have a flat-felled seam along the inner seam. There are different types of seams and finishes including French, plain and flat seams. There are also different finishes that are applied to the seams using different techniques such as pressing, binding and overlocking. The basic rule is that you don't want to be staring at the thread stitched through the fabric. A properly finished and good quality seam will lay flat in the fabric and blend into the garment "seamlessly".

4. Weight: The weight of the fabric that is! The season and purpose of the garment is going to be a big factor here. For example, if you're buying a summer dress, you don't want it to be made of a heavy twill. On the other hand, if you're buying a winter sweater, you may want it to be heavy rather than fluffy. Just keep in mind when/where you're going to be wearing it. Also feel the fabric. Is it soft and comfy to touch? Does it feel durable and strong. Does it breath?

5. Care Instructions: This is a tricky one. Keep in mind the wearability of the piece when you're looking at the care instructions. Are you really going to dry-clean that t-shirt? Do you want to have to hand-wash that dress? If you're not willing to put in the effort, don't bother putting down the cash for it. I've ruined one too many blouses thinking I could just toss them in the machine.

There's certainly a lot more to buying quality fashion, but of course, this is just a little crash-course. If you like what you see here, let us know and we'll be sure to post a part 2!

Organic cotton

At PopLove we use two types of sustainable materials in our items: vintage/reclaimed materials and organic cotton. It is obvious how reused materials have a close-to-zero carbon footprint, however the use of organic cotton always seems a bit confusing. It is still freshly produced material using up resources and labor. The title "organic" often seems a bit unclear. How is this any greener than ordinary cotton you ask? We asked the same. 

There are some fascinating facts that show very clearly that organic cotton is a more sustainable choice than conventional cotton:

• Conventional cotton takes up only 3% of farmland around the globe, but it uses 25% of the world's chemical pesticides. In fact, the EPA considers 7 of the 15 main pesticides that are used on cotton as human carcinogens.
• Actually it is estimated that only 10% of these pesticides accomplish their task, as most of the chemicals sprayed from the air and can drift into nearby neighborhoods and contaminate local Eco-systems. The pesticides that reach their target will often absorb into the plants, air, water and soil poisoning us in the end...
• Since the insects become immune to the chemicals used, the quantities and types need to be increased, and this often causes ecological disasters. For example the EPA estimated that between 1-2 million birds are killed annually by carbofuran, just one insecticide used on cotton.
• Organic farming methods use natural fertilizers, like compost and animal manure, that recycles the nitrogen already in the soil rather than adding more, which reduces both pollution and emissions.
• Organic cotton doesn't have traces of the toxins as in the case of conventional cotton. People with sensitive skin can be irritated by these traces in normal cotton.

And these are just a couple of reasons to chose an organic cotton item. While you're at it make sure it's cool and stylish. May I suggest our latest unisex tank top?(Yes, this is a shameless plug!) Here it is:

Our new unisex Tank

Our new unisex Tank

Our new unisex Tank

 

Fast Fashion Trauma

Being that we're designers who create designs from recycled materials, it was bound to come up at some point - fast fashion.

It's a relatively new term that's being thrown around a lot lately, and it's something that we've been noticing. I don't mean in blogs, I mean in reality.

Let me start by explaining what "fast fashion" is. Once upon a time, designers/dressmakers made quality clothing with style, which was meant to last people for years. Fabric was durable and items were sturdy. "Fashion" was only for the wealthy who could afford to buy new clothes all the time.

As time passed, the gap between the fashions of the rich and the garb of the common-folk blended so much that today we can't see a difference except (maybe) for who gets it first and the name on the tag inside.

Image by David LaChapelle: Death by hamburger

That's the world we live in today. Except there is a difference - you just have to pay attention. Take a look at your favorite Forever21 sweater from 2 years ago. Does it look as beautiful as the day you bought it? In my experience - no. 

Now see if you can dig up that one piece you have in your wardrobe that you couldn't resist splurging on. How long have you owned it? How many times have you worn it? It still looks beautiful, doesn't it?

So what happens to that Forever21 sweater after a season or two when you're sick of it? Most people just toss it in the trash. Others put a little more thought in and donate it to a charity shop. There's just one problem with that:

IF IT'S GARBAGE TO YOU, IT'S GARBAGE TO EVERYONE.

We love tearing apart a good old pair of faded Levi's, but even the most talented re-working won't make a discolored rayon rag desirable. Not only that, but it's becoming harder and harder for us to find quality materials to use in our designs. It's not like we're being too fussy - we try to stick to basics like 100% cotton, wool, *sometimes* rayon and if we're really lucky - silk or linen.

Problem is, the items that end up in charity shops and vintage stores are 99% polyester, nylon, acrylic, Lycra etc. They might look shiny when they're on the hanger in the store, but wash it once and you're pretty much done. 

I'm not saying I have the perfect solution, but I do ask the question - How can we make a difference? In all honesty, I don't do much shopping for clothes (I make pretty much make whatever I need). As a consumer, you have all the power. 

I don't want to lecture and preach, so I'll leave you with the following challenge:

Next time you're in Gap or TopShop or wherever, make a point of paying attention to the fabric content & washing instructions of whatever you're about to purchase, and ask yourself one thing:

"How many times have I spent X amount of money on an item that I had to throw out after 6 months?"

Think about how much money you could save by spending a little more now on something that will last you years instead.

You'd be surprised how affordable quality/designer clothing really is.

<3

Andrea

That size 0 thing: Part 3

Alright, I know you're probably sick of hearing about this already, so we're wrapping up our size 0 debate with one final post - a female perspective.

I want to start by clearing something up. I'm not lashing out at someone who is naturally a size 0, like little asian girls or genetically superior freaks or women who are petite (like, 1.60m and a size 0). My problem is with the women who are naturally a size 8, and who look beautiful and healthy as a size 8, but they decide to starve themselves into skeletal oblivion.

WTF?!

On the other hand, I kind of get it. Some really powerful important person once decided that unhealthily skinny was now in fashion, and we haven't been able to drag ourselves out of it since. Way to go Calvin Klein. The worst part - a lot of times, I wish I were that skinny.

There's something about the female mind that is very resistant to logic. We're bombarded with images of "Beautiful, sexy women"who look like they'd be blown away by a gust of wind, and eventually, we start to believe it.

It doesn't matter how often our boyfriends/husbands tell us that we look beautiful at X weight - straight men have very little influence when it comes to fashion.

Thing is, most of us have some basic preservation instincts (or maybe just a lack of will-power?), and we eat. We don't always exercise, but we eat. Then we get frustrated that we can't attain this impossible ideal, and we start to hate our bodies and sometimes ourselves.

The poster-girl for skeleton-woman, Kate Moss, once said Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels. How F***'d up is that?

The only thing that's harder to deal with is someone who WAS a size 0, but isn't any more. Like me. When I was a teenager, I could eat like a pig (ask some of my old friends, they'll tell you!) and I'd never gain an ounce. Unfortunately, everyone's metabolism slows down at some point, and mine did too, and now I'm somewhere between a 4 and a 6.

Me at 17

Now, by most standards, that's pretty slim. Yet I still have an irrational desire to get back to at least a size 2. But maybe it's not so irrational. All I know is that something's shifted in society's ideal version of what's beautiful, and something needs to change.

<3
Andrea

That size 0 thing: Part 2 - The male perspective

There is something captivating (or purely shocking?) in the appearance of a stick-like woman. The bones protruding from odd spots and in funny angles. In a twisted way this appearance  communicates a notion of a "strong woman", a woman who is more powerful than her own nature. The truth is quite the opposite.

There is something very non-feminine about this look. Androgynous gone wrong. At the end of the day an image like this may catch your eye, but most guys wouldn't want to cuddle up with a pile of bones..

Not that I long for the image of the ideal woman of the 50's or 60's. The voluptuous screen goddesses such as Jayne Mansfield, Bridget Bardot, Marilyn Monroe  etc. They just look lazy to me. 

What would be really nice to bring back, would be the ideal female figure of the 80's. Women then couldn't just slim down to look right, they needed to combine a healthy balance of exercise and proper diet, for the toned and fit look. There were beautiful supermodels back then such as Cindy Crawford, Paulina Porizkova and Elle Maspherson.

xo
Shai

That size 0 thing: Part 1

This all started with a fashion ad I got in an email recently. This first thing I thought when I saw it was "WOW, that's awful!"... but I clicked on the ad.

I have a morbid fascination with this whole size 0 thing. I mean, it's not pretty. But it's somehow the norm now. Most people would look at this model thinking "Yep, she looks pretty average for a model." But compared to the average woman, she's so far from normal she might as well be another species.

I remember when I was a kid, models used to be these gorgeous superwomen. I know that Linda and Cindy and Claudia were all slim, but they were still women. Nowadays, models just end up looking like these weird malnutritioned aliens.

 

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The questions is, who's this alleged "beholder"? Who decided that impossibly skinny is best? And it's not like skinny has always been the ideal shape. Look at any Renaissance painting and you'll see a hell of a lot more curves than anywhere nowadays. That was way sexy then.

I think it's got a lot to do with what's hardest to achieve. Western cultures have a huge problem with obesity, particularly the US. Where does the majority of international media come from? Duh. If you take into account that a major part of what makes fashion desirable is its exclusivity, then in a twisted kind of way, it makes sense that size 0 is in fashion now. Does that make it right? Of course not!

Approximately 5 million Americans suffer from anorexia and bulimia. About 20% of people suffering from anorexia will prematurely die from complications related to their eating disorder, including suicide and heart problems.

And what for? To look like some kind of abstraction of a female?  

Following this post we will post a part 2: The male perspective, written by Shai, and 
a part 3: The female perspective, written by Andrea. We want to hear your feedback. Are we overreacting or does this bother you too?

<3
Shai / Andrea